Landslyde Instructions

Sighting in the Axcel® Landslyde (multipin version)

Archery sights have come a long way from the sights of the good ole days to modern day complex engineering marvels. Traditionally archery sights have been multi pin sights; that is usually 3-5 individual pins that would be set at specific distances – traditionally 20, 30, 40, 50, etc. yards, or single pin slider sights meaning you can slide the scope up and down along a vertical rail and using a sight tape allows the archer to dial the sight to any one specific distance.

Until one day when someone had the idea to put a multi pin scope on a slider sight and behold, the hybrid archery sight. This configuration has become increasingly popular over the last several years, especially with bowhunters. The reason? Well the best of both worlds of course! The hybrid archery sight gives the archer the ease of use, “set it and forget it” of the multi pin scope combined with the extended range and ability to dial to specific yardages of the single pin scope in one complete sight package.

And no body does this better than the Axcel® Landslyde! The Axcel® Landslyde is a great bowhunting or “do it all” 3D tournament archery slider sight. It comes in several variations including direct mount, carbon dovetail (Bridgelock) or picatinny. The scope can also be configured in a traditional single pin option, double (vertical) Ranger Pin, or hybrid multi-pin (3-5 horizontal pins). The sight in process for the single pin and Ranger Pin are fairly straight forward, but the multi-pin configuration often times can be a little difficult to understand due to the sights’ hybrid configuration. It is my hopes to bring some clarification to this process though detailed step by step instructions.

I won’t go into much detail about the initial installation or setting your 3 axis’ (that information can be found elsewhere). This guide will start with your first shots to sight in the Landslyde with a multipin scope option.

When sighting in the Landslyde with a multipin, we have to think about this and treat this like two sights – a fixed pin sight and a single pin slider. This also means that there will be essentially two halves to this sight in process. I will call the fixed pin sight in “Part A” and the single pin sight tape sight in “Part B”. We will start with part A – the fixed pin sight in process.

Part A - The fixed pins

1) It might seem a little unconventional, but we want to sight in the middle pin first. So if you have a 3 pin this will be your second pin down, and on a 5 pin it will be your third pin down. The reason we do this is to eventually keep all the pins centered in the scope housing. Your middle pin should already be in the middle of your scope housing but if it is not, align the middle pin using the individual pin micro adjustment knob on the bottom of the scope housing until it aligns with the engraved “notch” to the side of the scope housing.

2) Using the rapid travel wheel to move the entire housing, sight in the middle pin for the appropriate distance. For this example, on a 3 pin, the middle pin will be sighted in for 30 yards. Once the middle pin is sighted in using the gang elevation adjustment, lock the sight housing in place using the elevation lock lever. Note: This is the first and only time we will use the rapid travel wheel for the sight in process.

3) You have just found your “home base” for your sight. Where the sight is currently locked, slide your red dead stop to the corresponding nub on the elevation block. This will allow you to return to this home base location with repeatable accuracy.

4) The next step is to sight in the remaining pins for their appropriate distances. These pins will be adjusted using the individual pin adjustment knob. For this example, the top pin will be sighted in for 20 yards and the bottom pin for 40 yards. Note: Do not move the sight housing using the elevation wheel. Keep the sight elevation locked from the previous step.

Congratulations, you have completed the first half of the sight in process! The following steps will be to create the sight tape using the slider features of the sight. Note: It is important to pretend your sight only has one pin and one pointer for the remaining steps.

Part B – The sight tape.

5) For the next steps pick one pin and one pointer to use for your sight in. You can use any pin, but it is important that you be consistent and treat the sight like a single pin sight. For this example, we will use our middle pin and top pointer. Note: You are not deciding on your rover pin, this will just be used for sighting in.

Without moving your sight (from the home location found in step 3), draw a line on your blank white sight in tape at the top pointer mark. This line will represent your 30 yard sight tape distance since we chose our middle (30 yard) pin.

6) Now we need to shoot a second further distance. Pick a further distance that you can shoot accurately, typically 50 or 60 yards. Unlock the elevation lock lever to scroll the sight down and sight in this distance with the middle pin and mark the blank white sight tape with the top pointer once found. This line will represent the distance you shot, i.e., 60 yards.

7) Now that we have two drawn lines on our blank white sight tape, we need to match these two lines up with the appropriate sight tape. So find a sight tape where the 30 and 60 also lines up with your 30 yard and 60 yard drawn lines. Replace the blank white tape with the new engraved metal sight tape.

Congratulations you have completed the sight in portion of the sight tape! The last step is to make the two parts work together.

8) Return the sight housing to the home base position found with the red dead stop and lock the sight elevation. From here, we can manipulate the sight tape location and dual pointers. This means we can move the metal sight tape up or down to fit within the rail best as well as reposition the dual pointers to the desired location. Set the sight tape first and then set the pointers.

I recommend setting the top pointer to the 20 line of the sight tape and the bottom pointer to the 40 line of the sight tape. This will create a bracket to represent your corresponding pins; i.e. top pointer for top pin and bottom pointer for bottom pin. For the middle pin location, simply imagine the middle of the bracket on the sight tape.

Note: It is critical that the sight elevation does not move from the home base location while performing this step!

You now have a working hybrid multipin slider sight. You may use the sight to its full capabilities.

One of the great things about this particular set up is you now have 3-5 fixed pins for close encounter hunting where you don’t have to touch your sight. If the opportunity is right, you can unlock the sight and slide it down and have three rover pins that are accurate anywhere along the sight tape. For example, let’s say we have a bull elk at 55 yards and we’re comfortable with an ethical shot at that distance. I would slide my sight down and using my top and bottom pointers bracket 55 on my sight tape right in the middle. This way if the bull stays put I can use my middle pin at 55 yards to execute a shot. However, if he decides to work in a little closer, I also have a top pin for him at say 43 yards. The same applies, if he backs out a little; I have a bottom pin for him at say 68 yards. This gives me 25 yards of wiggle room for the elk to move closer or farther away and I still do not have to move my sight.

It is our hope that you will better enjoy your Axcel Landslyde and make the most of the opportunities that you are presented with because of the confidence you have in your properly sighted equipment. If you have any questions about this sight in process or any of our other Axcel products, please reach out to us either by phone or email at (434) 929-2800 or truball@truball.com.

by: Spencer Foster